Hot n Cold ~ Harpers Bazaar China

From Harpers Bazaar China back in April,

I'm crazy about this shoot!

Harpers Bazaar China

In ginger wigs and flawless makeup,

models Seon and Rachel Rutt

light it up in front of an ice-cream truck,

pastel hues and sunshine setting off this fantastic story

lensed by Shxpir.

Love. It.

How To Make Your Hair Shine

Summer can be super harsh on your hair.
Everything from sun damage to chlorine to surf and sand
contribute to stripping the sheen from your hair and leaving it looking lifeless and lack luster.

Here are some great tips to help you get  (and maintain!) shiny, glossy hair.

1.) Brazilian Blowouts
I love the Brazilian Blowout! As a more permanent treatment it helps the hair to stay smooth and glossy, regardless of where you are. Your styling time is cut in half, so you have less heat damage from blow dryers and irons, and even the most vicious humidity won't leave you frizzy.

2.) Use a shine enhancing shampoo.
Shampoo that contains jojoba, olive oil or rice proteins will work in your favor.
Avoid shampoos that strip the hair, and avoid "clarifying" shampoo.

3.) Use conditioning treatments that penetrate the hair shaft.
Plenty of deep treatments and conditioners really  don't penetrate that deeply. If at all. Often they just lay product on top of the hairshaft, and then it just rinses away.
Leave conditioner on for at least 3 minutes.

Oribe Hair Products

4.) After towel drying the hair use a glossing cream (fine hair) or a serum (course hair) that contain Vitamin B5. 
Or any of the Oribe shine products.
Comb through the hair evenly. (My hairdresser has me start underneath and then work my way through so that I don't saturate the top layer).
Saltwater sprays tend to leave a more matte finish to the hair, so if its shiny hair you're after, they may not be your best choice.
After blowdrying spritz a shine spray if needed.

Oribe Apres Beach

On shoots I frequently work with hairstylist Drew Noreen, who exclusively works with Oribe products. He has me completely addicted to them - nothing, nothing makes my hair look glossier
than Oribe, and the smell is to die for. ( a thousand glorious, heavenly deaths...) 




5.) Blow dry your hair correctly - use a round brush and angle the dryer downwards. This helps keep the cuticle flat - angling the dryer up or to the side can lift the cuticle. Sliding the brush gently down the hair shaft while blow drying helps the cuticle to lie flat.

6.) If you color your hair have your colorist do a shine treatment to help your color stay fresh and glossy.

How To Make An International Flight Easy

I would love to know exactly how many miles I have racked up flying round and round the world in my lifetime.
Sometimes I can't even believe how many miles I fly in one calendar year.

Regardless of whether you are making your first long haul flight, or if you are a veteran, there is most definitely a way to make it an easy, (relatively) comfortable experience. I can't be bothered with jet lag, and at least on my outbound trip I want to arrive refreshed and ready to go.
So here's what I do

1. Make a sleep kit
Whether you buy one ready made, or make your own, set yourself up to win with everything you need to sleep.
An eye mask to block out the light
A neck pillow (although these days airline seats have head rests that totally support your head, so I almost never bother dragging one around with me)

Earphones. Get noise cancelling if you can afford them, like the Bose QC15 . Look for something that is comfortable and that covers your ears (as opposed to earbuds). Anything that blocks out the hum of the engines and as much of the other ambient noise as possible. If you don't have noise cancelling headphones, plug in to one of the yoga/zen/rainforest channels that all the airlines seem to have - it will help block unwanted noise and put you to sleep.
A blanket. I've traveled with the same giant pashmina for more than 12 years now. Its soft, very very lightweight, but warm. It also takes up no space at all.
Airline blankets can be scratchy, and don't always keep you warm enough. Some airlines even charge extra for a blanket. I prefer to bring my own.

2. Check Bags

It takes forever for a plane to board, largely because so many people drag on too much cabin baggage. Pack a bag with enough to last you a couple of days in case your bags don't arrive with you. Be mindful of security rules on sizes of liquids etc. Packing only what you need to get you through the first couple of days in your cabin bag and checking the rest can streamline your experience getting through security and onboard the plane.
Rules change from airport to airport, so rather than deal with any hassles at the xray, I prefer to check as much as possible.

3. Drink Tons Of Water

Probably the most important item of all is to drink as much water as possible. The biggest part of jet-lag is getting dehydrated. You lose an additional 8 oz of water for every hour that you are up there, so its crucial that you drink as close to a glass of water for every hour of the flight.
  
4. Pack Healthy Snacks
Or at least check the airline's menu ahead of time. Sometimes there are healthy options - but mostly not.
Pre-sliced fresh fruit, unsalted nuts etc will serve you better than the high carb, high sugar, highly processed snacks and foods on most long haul flights. Be mindful of how much you eat too. Its super easy to overeat when you're sitting there for 10 or 12 hours.

5. Dress For Success
Wear comfortable clothes that you can layer up and layer down. Be able to work with however hot or cold the cabin is both during flight and also when sitting on the tarmac. Comfortable shoes (and socks!) are a must too. I'm a big believer in flying in comfortable clothes, but also in always looking stylish and well put together. 
Airlines frequently oversell seats and have to upgrade passengers. I always want that upgrade. No matter how much of a model citizen you are, if you're not dressed nicely you won't get that upgrade.

6. Sit Down, Shut Up, Powerdown. 
The flight can't take off until everyone is seated, belted in, and all electronics are powered down.
More so on domestic flights rather than internationals it seems to take forever for people to just sit down and do as they're told. And there is invariably some tool who feels the need to talk on his cellphone at full volume throughout the process. 
Make it easier on yourself and everyone else by streamlining the process. Once you're in your seat don't get back up to get anything out of the overhead bin until the flight has taken off and the seatbelt lights are turned off.

How To Apply Fragrance

Have you ever sat next to someone who absolutely reeks of fragrance overkill? Or equally hideous, someone who desperately needs fragrance?

After a nauseating experience the other day, I decided to do a mini "how to" on applying fragrance. 
(Some of the following is exerpted from an interview with Yves Saint Laurent perfumer Sophia Grojsman)

Marilyn Monroe applies Chanel No 5

Apply fragrance to your pulse points (wrists, inner elbows, backs of knees, behind ears, base of the throat) this way your pulse will gently emanate the fragrance as you move through your day.

In the morning:
Fragrance rises up as it evaporates, so applying a little behind your knees and on your wrists will help you to smell it all day.

In the evening:
Evening fragrances are typically more sensual, and need to envelope you straight away. Apply them behind the ears, at the base of the throat and to the wrists.

It needs to develop...
Hold the spray 5 to 7 inches (12-18cms) from your skin and spritz lightly. The idea is to mist it on, not saturate the skin. If the skin feels wet, the bottle is too close.
Within a few minutes the alcohol solution develops and releases the top notes of the fragrance. If at that point you can't smell it, add more.
Its a good idea to have someone else check how powerful your fragrance is. Sometimes it is difficult to smell fragrance on ourselves, and easy to overload with too much.

How To Do Your Makeup For The Beach

Ideally you really don't want to be wearing makeup to the beach.
But there are plenty of occasions across the summer where you have events to go to - picnics, boating, pool parties, beach parties etc, where the look needs to be au naturel, but you honestly, truly wouldn't be caught dead with an honestly bare face.

A face full of makeup in these situations just looks plain ridiculous, but there are some secrets and tricks to looking fabulously fresh faced and natural, when really there's absolutely nothing natural about it.

The perfect summer face is all about creating a killer complexion. Skin must look fresh and dewy, glowing and radiant, and ultimately it musn't look made up.

Start with moisturizer and a super sonic SPF of 50+
Allow each to really soak in before applying anything else. Otherwise you will have a makeup-soup on the surface of your skin.

If you can swing it, and especially if you live somewhere humid try to skip any form of foundation and instead opt for a facial self tanner. If that's not going to work for you the next best thing is a BB Cream.
Find one that works both with your skin type, and the climate you'll be in. In a dry climate you don't want a super matte finish, in a humid climate a dewy finish will look slimey.
BB's even out your skin tone and leave your face looking flawless yet makeup free. The trick is to keep your application so sheer that its barely there.

Tell your story via your brows, cheeks and lips.

Define your brows with a waterproof brow product such as Makeup Forever Aqua Brow
Enhance your brow, but don't make it look sculpted - remember the idea is to look fresh faced.
If you're using Aqua brow practice first - its super concentrated.

On your cheeks create a soft glow with a warm, radiant cream color, such as Nars The Multiple in Orgasm or Portofino, followed by a gentle sweep of bronzer. Avoid bronzers that shimmer as they will look mad in the sunlight.









Instead of big eye makeup, which really does look crazy at the beach or by the pool, choose a high volume, waterproof mascara, such as DiorShow Waterproof. 
If you're protecting your face with a big hat, and protecting your eyes with sunglasses, no one will see anyway.

Bring it all to life through your lips. I love bold, bright colors like fucshias, tangerines, or cherries. Don't go for perfection, just a burst of color.

My rule for any kind of beach makeup is no touch ups. I personally go for a facial self tanner so that I can keep applying facial SPF throughout the day.

Remember any powdery products will turn into a paste on your face as the day heats up.

Doutzen Kroes H&M High Summer Collection Video

Check out this behind the scenes video of beautiful Doutzen Kroes
in Tulum Mexico shooting the H and M High Summer Collection

The Last Virgin by Elena Kuznetsova

How cool is this??

The Last Virgin by Elena Kuznetsova

 

This first image was a Fashgasm on Fashionising.com.

I adore the imagery.

 

Shot by Elena Kuznetsova

makeup by Ngoan Nguyen

model Hoang Oanh

The Last Virgin by Elena Kuznetsova

The Last Virgin by Elena Kuznetsova

The Last Virgin by Elena Kuznetsova

The Last Virgin, Elena Kuznetsova

Nude Pro Genius Treatment Oil

Ever wonder how models get just gorgeous, dewy, glowing skin?
Do you covet a delicious, vibrant complexion?

NUDE Pro Genius Treatment Oil is a makeup artist must-have and a beauty aficionado's secret weapon.

It smooths and corrects, hydrates and nourishes and creates the most beautiful complexion.
NUDE Pro Genius Treatment Oil is a 100% pure and active treatment oil that gives a perfect balance of vital nutrients, creating luminous and healthy looking skin.
A blend of 10 precious oils ( black cumin, camelia, camelina, borage, sea buckthorn, macadamia, sweet almond, crambe abyssinica, jojoba and apricot) rich in Omega 3, 6, 7 and 9 absorb instantly and give long lasting deep cell nourishment.

Omega 3 reduces redness and irritation (and helps enormously after too much sun, wind or dry air)
Omega 6 works on deep hydration and moisturizing (keeping your skin hydrated slows the aging process)
Omega 7 works on renewal and repair
Omega 9 both protects the skin and nourishes it.

Its super easy to use too. You only need 2 drops, and can use them either alone or mixed in with your moisturizer. The beauty of it is that it absorbs deep deep into your skin, so there is no slimy, oily feel, or residue on the surface.
You can also use it as a treatment at night.

Beautiful Taormina, Sicily

Here on the beautiful island of Sicily, NUDE Pro Genius Treatment Oil is keeping my skin looking dewy, even though the weather is roasting hot, and I'm alternating between the drying effects of ocean water and the dehydrating effects of the wind from riding around the island on scooters and days spent sailing.
And all that lusty Sicilian wine....

How To Find Your Perfect Shade Of Red Lipstick

Ever notice how some girls can just own it in red lipstick, and others really don't?

image via I'm Not A Barbie

Red can be overwhelming, but there are a few tricks to mastering it.

First up, if you don't normally wear red, ease into it. Sometimes a red gloss can be a good stepping stone to get you used to such a strong color - you don't need to launch straight into red in its boldest form.

Next, know which undertone is right for your skin.

image courtesy of en.paperblog.com

If you are fair skinned, try a blue based red.
If you have an olive complexion you will look better in an orange based fire engine red or a brick red.
If you are dark complected a deeper more burgundy based red will look amazing.

A true, movie star red (like Julie Hewett Rouge Noir) looks amazing on pretty much everyone.

The key to owning it in a red lip is to keep everything else simple.
Keep your foundation clean, accent your brows and keep your eye almost bare.

Be a little bit more specific with your application - red needs more definition. A messily applied beige is neither here nor there, but a messily applied red lust looks awful.

Cameron Diaz, jeans, white shirt and red lips

A final note: don't save red lipstick for when you're dressing up. It looks killer with jeans or cutoffs and a white shirt.

image from blondeambition07

 

How To Cool A Heat Rash

Its wedding season again!

image by Sarah Hagerty

Recently I worked on a wedding where one of the (out of town) bridesmaids came down with a seething dose of heat rash.
Of course it had to be across her throat, chest and upper arms, and of course  the bridesmaids were wearing strapless dresses, leaving her nowhere to hide the telltale red blotches.
 

image by Holly Schumacher for Phoenix Bride and Groom Magazine

That got me thinking that throughout the summer girls everywhere will be getting married/being in bridal parties, and should this happen to them, they may need a quick fix.

Now in this case our bridesmaid had already been through hair and makeup, so the first course of action - a cold shower- wasn't an option, so we soaked towels in icy cold water, wrung them out so that they weren't dripping wet, and laid them over the areas covered in rash.
(Obviously she didn't have her bridesmaid dress on at the time)
If cold showers/cold compresses don't have a medicinal benefit, they at least cool down some of the firey redness, and reduce some of the blotchiness.
If you do shower, be super careful when towel drying. Rubbing the skin can just agitate it.

Next up, a staple in my makeup kit is Hylunia Colloidal Silver Spray. I use this on any and all skin irritations, and it miraculously seems to heal all. 
I've used it on models who have had the worst wax burns you have ever seen, sun burn, wind burn, everything you can imagine.
The stuff is magic.

there I am working away on a Phoenix Bride and Groom Magazine shoot

Normally I will do 3 or 4 applications of colloidal silver spray, allowing it to air dry in between. 

If there is no Colloidal Silver spray on hand I reach for hydrocortisone cream. 

The last part of the equation, which may have verity, or may just be a placebo, is to drink icy cold water or sweet tea. Something about cooling you down from the inside and the outside at the same time seems to help enormously. I'm convinced that soda just makes anything worse, so avoid the colas and other soft drinks.

Phoenix Bride and Groom magazine

One last note on summer weddings: if you are getting married on a warm day, or if you are in a mid-summer wedding, pack a small bottle of either baby powder or Gold Bond powder. 
Thighs chafing together under those dresses can be misery. I can't even tell you how many travel sized bottles of baby powder/Gold Bond have exited my kit to stay with the bridal party over the years!

To see more from the bridal shoots in this blogpost, and to find out more wedding related info, check out the Phoenix Bride and Groom blog 

Folk Dandy ~ Vogue Germany

I so love this makeup!

Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

Makeup artist Jessica Nedza paints absolute magic

on the exquisite face of  20 year old

Latvian model Karlina Caune.

Karlina Caune, Vogue Germany

And I just cannot get over Karlina's amazing face.

Shot by Giampaolo Sgura for Vogue Germany

Folk Dandy

Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

Karlina Caune, Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

Karlina Caune, Vogue Germany

Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

Karlina Caune, Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

Folk Dandy, Vogue Germany

How To Hide Your Roots

If your roots are showing and you're still a couple of weeks from seeing your colorist, or you're far from home and either too loyal or too scared to have anyone else get anywhere near your colored tresses, here are some quick tips on how to disguise those telltale roots!

Mary Kate Olson, gorgeous with roots

1. Work Your Part.
Wearing your hair down with a part is the biggest giveaway that the roots are overdue for a little lovin'.
Instead of keeping a neat, straight part, break it up. Go for a zigzag part, or tip your head forward, shake your hair out, then let it fall as it will. An uneven part will hide your roots, or at least make them look a little more diffused.

Cameron Diaz in a soft messy pony tail with a broken up part

2. Pump Up The Volume.
The closer your hair is worn to the scalp the more noticeable your roots are. Instead of pulling your hair back tight and smooth, tease your roots and add texture and volume. A soft, messy pony with some height will help to disguise your roots.

3. Wear A Braid or Fishtail
The very nature of braids and fishtails break up color throughout the hair. A braid or fishtail that is soft and worn to the side will soften the look of your roots, and they will appear a little more like lowlights than harsh roots.

4. Touch It Up
Grab a root touch up kit and mask the problem a little. Technique is everything with these, so make sure you hold up sections of the hair, and paint product in an upward motion, blending it into the body of the hair shaft to help offset getting "color bands".